Daniel Roseberry Makes Us Ponder Provocative Paradoxes

On the last stretch of the Paris Fashion Week, Schiaparelli amuses and provokes thought as we explore the world of eccentricity and surrealism

Can eccentricity still be considered truly eccentric when it’s closely associated with surrealism? As it gains acceptance and becomes more common, does it cease to be exceptional? Daniel Roseberry’s latest collection continues to uphold the artistic legacy of Schiaparelli, drawing inspiration from the world of surrealism. Much like Elsa Schiaparelli, who was deeply influenced by art, Roseberry’s work is a testament to this artistic connection. Even when working with heavier materials, he maintains a touch of levity, understanding that provocative design demands not taking oneself too seriously.

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The creative director’s mission? To sprinkle the mundane with a generous dose of daily delights, resulting in timeless classics like white shirts, suits, and smoking jackets that got a Schiaparelli-style makeover that’s the fashion equivalent of adding a feathered boa to a librarian’s outfit. Eccentricities sprout like wildflowers in spring, as tailored pieces where spilled nail polish and leather cigarette embroideries play a merry game of hide-and-seek, just waiting to be discovered. The devil, or in this case, the delightful details, was in the gold bijoux, turning these designs into glittering gems fit for fashion royalty.

Yet it’s the finer-than-fine components that truly set this collection apart. Imagine a coral red shift dress bedecked with brass nipples that could double as emergency coat hooks, and a meticulously crafted Canadian tuxedo with jackets that have shoulders lower than your Monday morning motivation. The playful iconography—lips, ribs, an ox, and some doves—give a touch of absurdity that’s a delight for the eyes, where every piece has its own hilarious story to tell.

Roseberry’s bold embrace of the house’s eccentric legacy shines through as he resurrects the iconic Salvador Dalí-painted lobster, famously adorning a dress worn by the Duchess of Windsor in the 30s. Initially tiptoeing around this reference, Roseberry now wholeheartedly invites the lobster’s whimsical charm into the collection. Not stopping there, the ensemble boasts colossal lobster and crab necklaces and oversized gold cuff bracelets, paying homage to the avant-garde spirit of Brancusi’s shapes. Who knew crustaceans could be so couture?

In truth, this collection encapsulates a profound exploration of juxtaposition—a nuanced interplay between the corporeal and the surreal, tight and loose, hinged and unhinged. Our world is where paradoxes abound, and so we are compelled to acknowledge the coexistence of seemingly antithetical truths. In this delicate interplay between the ordinary and the exceptional, this collection transcends mere attire, becoming a medium for personal expression and a testament to the multifaceted nature of fashion itself.

Daniel Roseberry and Schiaparelli, known for its surrealistic humor, continue to amaze with their unconventional and whimsical designs. Pieces remain quirky and wonderfully imaginative, and possess the capacity to evoke a profound response, to inspire a transformative journey across a room, and to resonate as an extraordinary embodiment of our most exquisite couture creations: our ideas of ourselves.

Photos: SCHIAPARELLI (via website and Instagram)

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Daniel Roseberry Makes Us Ponder Provocative Paradoxes
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