Louis Vuitton S/S25: Nicolas Ghesquière Explores New Horizons
Closing Paris Fashion Week, Nicolas Ghesquière invites us on a new adventure where the runway of over 1,000 trunks is a journey through contrasts
Nicolas Ghesquière has packed our bags, strapped us in, and taken us on another adventure with Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection as it ends Paris Fashion Week. The runway, cleverly built out of over 1,000 of the Maison’s iconic trunks, was a nod to its travel heritage. It was an invitation by the Artistic Director of Women’s Collections to a world of contrasts, where structure meets fluidity and softness flexes its muscle.
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The show opened like a long-haul flight, taking its time to build momentum. But once we hit cruising altitude, it was evident Ghesquière had something clever up his well-tailored sleeve. The entire collection seemed to play a game of tug-of-war: razor-sharp tailoring softened by fluttering fabrics and weighty structures seemingly held up by invisible threads—solid but graceful.
Then, there were the prints. Artist Laurent Grasso, known for bending the rules of time and space with his otherworldly paintings, had his art transported from canvas to cloth. Five works from his Studies into the Past series found new life on selected pieces as if each look was a portal to a different era—one that never existed but felt familiar. Grasso’s surreal art complemented Ghesquière’s vision of contradictions, creating a visual experience that kept us guessing, just like the best kind of travel.
The creative director’s collection vibrated with intensity, like the constant murmur of a jet engine. Each look appeared to oscillate between two extremes: spidery-thin textiles floating in midair clung to models one moment and moved in the wind the next. We were in an architectural wonder with precisely defined angles, and the next amid the softness of flowing silhouettes. This was not peaceful, but exciting—like something new, after a decade of extravagance, courtesy of none other than Ghesquière.
The soundtrack, a mix of four tracks from Jamie xx’s latest album In Waves, was the ideal companion, flowing like the ultimate travel playlist. Just like Ghesquière’s garments, the music ebbed and flowed, keeping us in a state of anticipation, not knowing whether the next track would land us in an electronic dream or a rhythmic trance.
As the models circled the trunk-laden runway, it was impossible not to feel like we were on some far-flung journey where Louis Vuitton trunks held memories of places we’d never been. Ghesquière took us there—effortlessly moving between contrasting worlds, much like how Louis Vuitton itself has moved between tradition and innovation for over a century.
The collection thrived on these juxtapositions. Nicolas Ghesquière’s ability to marry structure with softness, history with the future, and travel with grounded femininity made it obvious: Louis Vuitton is, and always has been, a brand on the move. And if this collection is any indication, the journey is just getting started, where something fresh is about to emerge.
Photos: LOUIS VUITTON
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