Fall/Winter 2025: Lanvin’s Co-ed Collection Brings French Chic Back

Peter Copping’s debut collection, À La Maison, pays tribute to founder Jeanne Lanvin and the origins of French chic

After a two-year hiatus, Lanvin has made a return to the runway with its highly anticipated collection, “À la maison”—French for “at home.” Albeit sentimental, the name is a tribute to Jeanne Lanvin, the woman who revolutionized French fashion by creating one of the first holistic lifestyle brands. From haute couture to interiors, her vision of elegance extended far beyond the wardrobe. Now, new creative director Peter Copping takes the mantle with a reverence for the house’s heritage and an eye toward the future.

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Copping, whose résumé spans Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, and Balenciaga, exudes a calm confidence in this latest endeavor. It’s his first foray into menswear, yet his couture sensibility is unmistakable throughout the co-ed collection. While relaunching couture itself—a Lanvin hallmark since its founding in 1889—isn’t off the table, this debut proves that ready-to-wear can embody the meticulous artistry of couture.

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The collection’s crown jewel is Lanvin’s signature blue, a hue first popularized in the 1920s by Jeanne herself. Here, it’s reimagined to symbolize the house’s enduring connection to the natural world, evoking oceans and skies while anchoring Lanvin’s ethos. This color served as a foundation for the collection’s diverse palette, which ranged from crushed golds to deep velvets, vivid florals, and intricate metallics.

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Copping’s designs combined elongated, structural forms with couture-inspired develops, giving a new spin on Parisian classics like the peacoat and trench coat. Satin embellishments, frayed lapels, and updated interpretations of Lanvin’s mother-and-child insignia added a renewed interpretation to this homage. For women, the gowns ran the gamut from minimalist elegance to full-on dramatic grandeur, dripping in 1920s lace and artful beading displayed images of opera-worthy visions. As for the men? Denim met tailoring in a way that proved you can look relaxed and sophisticated at the same time. Now that’s a look you can’t fake.

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The details were as sharp as a Parisian’s cheekbone: sequin-clad evening gowns with turtlenecks that could stop traffic, lapels gleaming with mirror-like discs, and embroidery so precise it could’ve been choreographed. The collection captured the essence of a Parisian night out—naturally glamorous, never trying too hard, but still making everyone wonder if they’d somehow missed the memo on looking this solid.

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Lanvin’s comeback is a blueprint for its future. By going back to the roots of French elegance, Peter Copping has welcomed a new era, one that honors Jeanne Lanvin’s vision while adapting to the modern world. With “À la maison”, Lanvin confirms that looking back builds something lasting. When it comes to the oldest operating couture house in Paris, that legacy is far from over.

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Photos: LANVIN

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Fall/Winter 2025: Lanvin’s Co-ed Collection Brings French Chic Back
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